Tag Archives: dry dog food

Oxidation of commercial pet foods

Over the world, dog owners are finding ways to cut costs in the face of high inflation.

Many who feed commercial foods (commonly referred to as kibble), will look to buying the largest size bag of food possible because typically the price per pound/kg is best when you buy a large bag.

When using kibble, you need to understand the process of oxidation. Oxidation happens as soon as you open the bag and expose the food to air and that process continues until your dog eats the food.

Oxidation happens to human food, too, by the way.

Oxidation degrades the nutrients in the food and chemically changes the fats in a process known as “going rancid.”

It’s tempting to want to empty the bag into a more convenient container and often this container will be plastic. The problem is that most containers that can hold a large bag of dog food are not food-grade plastic.

Food-grade plastics are designed to come into contact with food, to have a strong seal, and to avoid leaching of chemicals into food. Food grade plastics don’t have dyes or other additives and they often are not made from 100% recycled plastic because there is no guarantee on the quality of materials in the supply chain.

Bags for commercial dog food are produced to help protect against oxidation; it’s actually better to seal the bag as soon as you take out what you need and to keep the bag in a cool, dry and dark place rather than emptying it into another container. If a container is needed, I prefer metal to plastic because it won’t leach nasties into the food and can be washed and dried at high temperature in the dishwasher. I only transfer enough food to last between 5 and 7 days.

Regular washing of containers to remove residual fats and crumbs is essential and something that dog owners are notoriously bad at doing. It’s just too easy to refill a container without washing it.

I’m old enough to remember when dog food companies produced larger metal tins for dog food as part of their brand promotions; I still own one from Iams/Eukanuba that is over 20 years old and that’s the container I use for temporary food storage. It fits in the dishwasher and I’m confident that it is being cleaned and sterilised in the dishwasher.

Sadly, even the pet food companies have jumped on the plastic bandwagon in more recent years and now only produce plastic containers when/if they have a promotion. I’m not sure if these containers are food grade plastic, either.

There are many opinions about how much food you should buy at any given time. A good rule of thumb is 4-6 week’s worth. Of course, if your dog is small, then a 20 kg bag of food is going to last way longer than this – so that’s a good indication that the large bag is not right for you.

Sox easily goes through his 12 kg bag of gastrointestinal food in less than six weeks; so I’m comfortable with my decision to buy the bag.

In summary, when feeding kibble:

  • buy only 4-6 week’s worth at a time
  • keep the bag sealed after every use
  • store the bag in a cool, dry and dark place
  • if a container is convenient for you, transfer only a few days worth of food into the container, preferably metal
  • if you can’t find metal ensure you are using a food-grade plastic container
  • thoroughly wash and dry your container each time you empty it

Kathleen Crisley, Fear-Free certified professional and specialist in dog massage, rehabilitation and canine fitness,  The Balanced Dog, Christchurch, New Zealand

A tale of 2 dog foods

Clients of my practice know that I feed a hybrid diet, that is a diet that is part commercial dog food (dry food – ‘kibble’ as well as dehydrated raw food), raw (real meat) and homemade food using both real meat, vegetables, eggs and fruit.

We are preparing for our third annual fundraiser and I received a small bag of a dry food – readily available in supermarkets – as a donation for the rescue.  I set it aside in my office and, one evening, I heard the rustling of paper…

Izzy had helped herself to the donated food.  It seemed she found it quite tasty.

So, I decided the donated food could be hers and I would replace the bag with another one.  In the meantime, I let her have one small handful with one of her meals over the next few days.

And she did something she had never done before… during the night she was chewing on her feet.  Really chewing.  For the first night, I dismissed it as a one-off irritation.  By the fourth night, I knew something was up.

It was the dog food, of course!

The supermarket dog food has gone into the organics bin to be recycled.  I’ll make a donation to the fundraiser in lieu of another bag of that food!

Thought you might like to compare labels…

This is Izzy’s current ‘normal’ food:

Salmon Meal, Potatoes, Tapioca, Fish Meal, Chicken Fat, Peas, Blueberries, Cranberries, Papayas, Mangos, Apples, Basil, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme, Sunflower Seeds, Chamomile, Peppermint, Camelia, Natural Flavor, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin (Vitamin B3), Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid (Vitamin B9), Sodium Chloride, Taurine, Choline Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Calcium Carbonate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Calcium Iodate, Cobalt Sulfate, Sodium Selenite, Green Tea Extract, Rosemary Extract and Spearmint Extract

and this was the supermarket food:

Lamb (source of glucosamine), brewers rice, whole grain corn, whole grain wheat, poultry by-product meal (source of glucosamine), corn gluten meal, soybean meal, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols, calcium phosphate, glycerine, animal digest, calcium carbonate, potassium chloride, salt, caramel color, Vitamin E supplement, choline chloride, zinc sulfate, L-Lysine monohydrochloride, ferrous sulfate, sulfur, manganese sulfate, niacin, Vitamin A supplement, calcium pantothenate, thiamine mononitrate, copper sulfate, riboflavin supplement, Vitamin B-12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, garlic oil, folic acid, Vitamin D-3 supplement, calcium iodate, biotin, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity, sodium selenite.

Notice the differences?

Kathleen Crisley, specialist in dog massage, rehabilitation and nutrition/food therapy, The Balanced Dog, Christchurch, New Zealand